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Beautiful Buttons

Buttons have a wonderful history. They are badges of rank, family heirlooms, containers for spy’s microfilm and tokens of love. Most are mass produced but some are artistic works. King Louis XIV of France had 14 perfectly matched diamond buttons. Think of buttons as attached jewelry.

Upgrading the buttons on a purchased garment will improve the appearance and make it unique. Manufacturers use flat two hole buttons because they can be sewn by machine and are inexpensive. Take your garment to the fabric store and "try on" shank buttons while they are still on the card. Choose buttons that are the same size as the ones on the garment.

The button size on the pattern envelope is very important. Using larger or smaller ones will look uneven due to the amount of overlap from the center line. The overlap is smaller on a delicate blouse with small buttons than on a coat with large buttons. The distance the button is positioned from the fold and the place where the button hole starts is very important. Sewing a line of basting stitches down the center line of the garment will help guide positioning.

On women's garments the first button hole must be located directly between the bust points. This is required to prevent gaping. Adjust the location of the button holes from this point. This does not change the distance from the edge, just the vertical spacing. Measure from the bust point button hole to the top button hole and adjust the spacing from that measurement. Consider grouping the button holes in sets of two or three for a very high end designer look.

With a little practice and a few tips anyone can make perfect button holes. Practice several times to gain confidence. Read the machine instruction manual carefully for the best techniques for your machine. Cut the practice button holes open and slide one of the buttons through it to make sure it is the correct length. Domed buttons will require a longer button hole. To practice button holes you must use the same number and type of layers that will be in the garment. Usually this is two layers of garment fabric and one or two layers of interfacing.

There must be interfacing behind all button holes. Use fusible or sew-in depending on the garment but there must be interfacing. If the interfacing is very light add a second layer. Cut a small oval of interfacing about one inch wide and one inch longer than the button hole. Cutting the oval with pinking shears will soften edges. Position it on the inside of the facing, directly behind the button hole. Fuse it in place or use a little glue stick to keep it flat. Cut one inch circles of interfacing to place, on the facing, behind the buttons. This will provide more support and keep the button thread from ripping through the fabric. The ultimate touch for buttons is to sew tiny flat buttons behind the fashion button. It doesn't take any more effort because both are sewn on at the same time.

For button holes in fabric that is thick, fuzzy or loopy try adding surface stabilizer. Use wash-away stabilizer for machine embroidery. Cut two inch wide strips and wrap them around the edge of the garment so that they cover both the back and front of the button hole position. Baste them in place. Stitch the button hole, tear off excess and spray with water. The stabilizer tames the surface of the fabric allowing the stitching to work better. Use the widest button hole stitch that your machine makes on this type of fabric.

Before cutting the button hole open run a thin line of Fray Check down the middle of the back side. Allow it to dry completely, for at least an hour. To cut the button hole open use an Exacto Knife and a small block of wood. Slice from one end to the middle, then from the other end to the middle. This will make a clean smooth cut. Never ever try to open a button hole with a seam ripper. That dull old thing will pull and tear its way through. You could end up ripping past the end of the button hole. If white interfacing is showing in the button hole opening on dark fabrics just touch it up with a Permanent Sharpie Marker in the right color.

Go jewelry shopping in the button area of the fabric store. Look at the wonderful selection of sizes colors and shapes.